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How are cannabis clothes produced?

What will you read about in this article?

  1. Cannabis Cultivation
  2. Retting
  3. Breaking
  4. Separation
  5. Fiber Combing
  6. Spinning and Spool Winding
  7. Fabric Production
  8. Clothes Sewing

Cannabis Cultivation

Thousands of years of selective cannabis breeding have resulted in cultivars that show many characteristics: they are suitable for specific environments and able to grow on almost every latitude. Cannabis is a universal plant, resistant to changing weather conditions. Therefore, they can be grown in practically any climate zone, without need of logging forests for cultivation, or polluting the environment with pesticides, as is the case with the very widespread cotton, which is quite difficult to grow and requires usage of a huge amount of agricultural chemicals, as well as water.

Did you know that many studies have shown that as much as 50% of all pesticides generated from crops come from cotton cultivation? Whilst cotton is the most frequently chosen material for the production of clothing. That is why it is so important to look for alternatives that are healthier for humans and the environment in the clothing industry.

If you are interested in the topic of ecology in textile industry, we invite you to read our article entitled “Organic clothes - do you know which ones are REALLY organic?

For us, it is extraordinary that cannabis plantations can be established on various types of fallow land, as well as areas degraded by industrial human activity (which is plenty nowadays!). It is all thanks to cannabis' ability to grow in a polluted environment, and its soil and air purifying properties. Thus, in contrast to typical textile crops, they do not degrade the natural environment. Instead, they contribute to its purification, and manage areas that have already been destroyed by human activity.

The increasingly developing knowledge of ecology and living according to the ZERO WASTE principle is slowly returning to favors the known (but forgotten) for centuries cannabis. People begin to appreciate its wide use in medicine and cosmetology, as well as in the construction, food and clothing industries. It is thanks to its wide application, as no part of it is being wasted when cultivating cannabis. The flowers and leaves are used for food, medical and cosmetic purposes, while the stems and ground parts are used to obtain fibers for the manufacture of clothing and materials used in construction.

In case of cannabis fabric, later-ripping cultivars are grown, to allow an increased concentration of cellulose in the plant, and its greater yield as the season progresses. This is why the cultivation takes place without any need for treatments, such as genetic modifications, which negavite impact on the environment and humans has not yet been fully investigated. For this reason, we usually plant cannabis in spring in the northern hemisphere, and autumn in the southern hemisphere, and it ripes in about a quarter. Plants are trimmed a few centimeters above the ground and left on the ground, to dry completely. The most common method of harvesting is a mechanical one, performed with a use of special knives, made to cut the plant as efficiently as possible, without wasting any part of it. The crops cut in this way are placed in rows until they are completely dry, for a period of several days. This is traditionally followed by retting, which is one of the most important stages in the formation of cannabis fibers.

Retting

It is a process of dividing a stem into fibers and a lignified part (so-called straw), which is carried out with a support of microbiological processes. They cause the dissolution of naturally occurring plant glues called pectins, which bind individual elements of the stem. It is a completely natural process, with the support of naturally occurring microorganisms - thanks to these small creatures, we obtain a fiber that is clean and divisible, and thus, we obtain a high-quality raw material from it. Depending on the climate, this process is carried out in two ways.

The first method includes spreading straws on the field, where it draws moisture from the ground. This method is not only a simpler solution, but also works great in our climate, which is relatively cool and humid. In this case, it is necessary to turn the collected straw regularly so that the fermentation process goes smoothly.

Second method includes soaking small bundles of straw in natural water bodies, or initially prepared pools with water.

What both processes have in common is that they are completely natural - they are performed without any use of chemicals, unlike other textile plants, where the processing often involves a usage of chemical or mechanical techniques.

It can be said that retting is a controlled process of plant deterioration, as the wet organic substance is susceptible to fermentation. This fermentation replaces the mechanical separation of the fibers from the raw straw. Determining the moment when the straw comes out, i.e. the end of the process of pectin decomposition by microorganisms, depends on the quantity and quality of the fibers. Recognition of the right moment is based on the observation of color (well-matured straw is gray with dark spots). The second way to determine the straw’s readiness for further processing is breaking.

Breaking

It is one of the ways to determine the readiness of the straw for further processing after the retting process. This is an extremely important stage in the process of clothes creation. Thanks to that process, we manage to maintain the excellent quality of individual plant elements, and thus the excellent quality of the fibers. How does it work in practice? If the straw bends instead of creating a snap when it breaks, and separates the fiber in the form of a ribbon - it is a sign of insufficient dewatering. We collect such straw into sheaves, which are then placed in an vertical position and set aside, to dry completely. Straw prepared in this way goes to the next stage of cannabis fiber production, which is separation.

Separation

The straw is divided into fiber and shiver by so-called flapping. The shiver is a lignified part of the stem that might appear to be a waste-product, but actually has many uses. You may not even know, but shiver is widely used in the construction industry as a component of modern and ecological hemp concretes, with very good insulating, anti-fungal and fire-resistant properties.

On a contrary, we use fibers in the clothing industry, to produce clothes that are incredibly light and, at the same time, very durable. Resistance, delicacy and natural fungicidal properties make cannabis clothes so special, that you can enjoy them for years. Such properties are acquired in another process, which is fiber combing.

Fiber Combing

At this stage, short fibers are separated from the long ones. The short ones of lower quality are used for the production of workwear, while long fibers are used to obtain excellent quality material for the production of our clothes. It can be said that combing means removing any lignified particles and further aligning the fibers into continuous strands, which are then spun and wound onto a spool. It is mainly thanks to this stage that the fibers gain thinness and strength, and thus your clothes gain their delicate structure, which in contact with the body gives the feeling of an “additional skin”. Combing not only allows to finally clean the fiber of tiny particles, but also makes it light, which benefits in thermoregulatory properties of the material. This is why our clothes keep you warm in winter and at the same time provide a feeling of airiness on hot days. Thanks to these properties of cannabis fibers, your skin can breathe.

Spinning and Spool Winding

At this stage, the previously combed fibers take the final form of a string by using special spinning machines, which is then wound on spools. Spinning is a tight twist of many fibers into one thread, making the material extremely durable. This is the last stage of cannabis fiber processing. We went through the entire process of creation, from the plant harvested in the field to the high-quality thread, which creates an excellent clean product, with anti-allergic and fungicidal properties. The threads prepared in this way are ready to be used for the production of the most ecological clothing available on the market, which will provide you with comfort and freedom, as well as save money, without burdening the environment and wasting resources.

Fabric Production

Fabrics are created from the threads wound on spools. In the clothing industry, we distinguish knitted and woven fabrics. Many manufacturers and retailers misuse these terms interchangeably, while the difference in their output is significant. You might have guessed that knitted fabrics are knitted and textiles woven. Of course you are right, but what does this mean in practice? It is all about the way of weaving the threads. Textiles are made of a weave of two threads, the so-called weft and warp. Knitted fabrics, on the other hand, are made of one or more threads, which form a mesh yarn. This effect is achieved by weaving rows or columns which, when joined, form eyelets.

What should pay attention to when deciding on the fabric? First of all, you should know what each of them is characterized by. Knitted fabrics are elastic, so they feel softer in touch. Due to this, they are more easily being stretched. Textiles, on the other hand, are stiffer, but therefore more durable and retain their original shape for longer (they do not stretch out). For this reason, tracksuits and other everyday clothing, such as T-shirts, are most often made of knitted fabrics, while bedclothes, trousers or elegant clothing are made of textiles.

Clothes Sewing

It is the final stage between you and the purchase of high-quality clothes. It doesn’t matter if we produce a blouse, trousers or accessories, the rules are the same. The production should be as efficient as possible, respecting the material, so that no part of it is wasted. Therefore, the production of cannabis clothing, with respect to the ZERO WASTE principle, reduces production waste to a minimum - close to zero. Hemp clothing itself is delicate, so it does not require additional chemical softening, sp the process remains ecological even in the last stage.

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